Proenza Schouler kicks off NYFW with a strong collection that shows how well they know their audience.

For the past 20 years, Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough have distinguished themselves as designers who know how to dress women. In those 2 decades, it is known that a Proenza woman adores the understated— a person who does not care for trends; one who enjoys the classic with the choice to embellish when necessary. May this come from fun prints to quirky accessories, a Proenza woman appreciates eccentricity in the face of minimalism. Besides, minimalism is not always too bland to look at. There’s a fun aspect to it too—you only need to know where to look because sometimes the best things come from where you least expect them. 

Photo Credit: Jonas Gustavsson

This quality remains true in this season’s collection. Proenza Schouler showed that the devil was in the details and no matter how small they may be, it is still hard to miss. These details are in the animal prints peeking through breezy button-downs, the straps that dangle flawlessly along with the model’s movement, and even down to the bunched-up turtleneck worn underneath a tight blazer— these details felt simple yet indulgent. It felt like a treat for being the best-dressed woman in the room, the chicest of them all. 

Photo Credit: Jonas Gustavsson

Aside from the tiny tasty details, the obvious ones were just as exciting. Hernandez and McCollough took the corsetry narrative—a narrative we are seeing a lot lately— and made their own modern spin. Seamless corseted silhouettes were the star of the show. It’s a kind of corset that anyone would want to be trapped in, though it definitely looks far less restricting than the traditional kind. A combination of body-fitting clothes with added ease was consistent throughout. Blazers that looked tightly wound on the torso do not feel as confining because of the flowy straps, and the billowing skirts added volume and ease with every move. 

Photo Credit: Jonas Gustavsson

This contrast was also highlighted with the accompanied performance composed by Eartheater. The violin quintet deviates well with the quiet clothes and atmosphere. The brash difference between the brutality of music and the softness of the fabric makes for a great presentation. Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough made sure that anyone who wears their clothes is one to envy.

You can watch Proenza Schouler Fall Winter 2022 runway show on YouTube, linked HERE.

Published by HOLR Magazine.