On the third week of August this summer, I went on a press trip to Florence, a city that I have always loved for its art and history – no matter how many times I come back, I always find new hidden gems and dream-like alleys and corners. For anyone who wants to visit the city, here are my suggestions to fully experience its beauty:
- For my stay, read my piece on la Gemma Hotel, a new luxury hotel in the heart of the city.
- For tours and tastings
‘Italy customised tours’ offer tailor made experiences whose goal is to deepen visitors’ understanding of the different Italian region’s specialities – from food and wine to hidden cultural gems and histories. With our guide, we wandered through Florence, avoiding the most crowded spots and discovering corners of history and gastronomic gems.
https://www.italycustomized.it/about
The Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore; paintings from Palazzo Vecchio
Firenze was built in 59 BC: an old town of retired roman soldiers who fought for Julius Caesar. Originally an army camp located along the Via Cassia, the main road between Rome and the North, the town quickly became an important commercial centre. It was in the Renaissance however, that its hegemony started. With banker families like the Albizzi, Pazzi and, most famously, the Medici, it became the centre of Italy. The Medici were bankers to the Pope, held the strings of power in the city and supported artists such as Michelangelo, Leonardo and Botticelli.
Renaissance history is everywhere in Florence. The symbols of the guilds can be found on the walls of buildings and in the corners of the Old Market; palaces like Palazzo Medici and Palazzo Vecchio are filled with paintings and frescoes, chapels that were commissioned by the Medici and their symbols of power like lions and red fleur de lis – the family crest. The Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore (Saint Mary of the Flower) stands tall in the middle of the city, embodying the old idea of golden ratio: perfection in geometry and architecture. From above the cathedral looks like a flower, connecting the history with the name of the city: once called Florenzia, the ‘flowering city’, because it was founded in spring during the roman floralia.
Mercato Vecchio, the old market
During our private tour with Italy customised, we learned about such nuggets of history, while tasting incredible food and visiting local businesses. We made a stop at Slitti Firenze – a family-owned chocolate and coffee spot decorated with cascade of pale pink flowers over mirrored walls. We toured the mercato centrale (the old market), where locals and tourists walk around stalls of cheeses and meats. We tasted the cantucci, the Tuscan almond biscuits, which must be dipped or soaked in sweet wines like Vin Santo to soften them. We then made a stop for prosecco and fried shrimps, before leaving the market and settling at Enoteca Alessi, a wine bar that opened in 1952 and pairs wine and spirits from every region of Italy with delicious platters of meats, cheeses and vegetables.
Food and wines from Enoteca Alessi
- To experience the city’s hidden art, symbolism and craft
Francesco, our guide, also curates immersive travel experiences that include the palaces of Florentine nobility as well as tours of the artisans’ and jewellers’ workshops – during such visits, guests can see how pieces of jewellery are cast and engraved, how mosaics are composed, then go to the Tuscan countryside for vineyard visits and wine tasting. Founded by Salvatore Ambrosino, l’Arte Nascosta, is a community of artists and creators who are on a quest to highlight Italy’s cultural patrimony. The project celebrates small boutique Italian artisans and has started their bespoke tour service: Aion. The goal? To make patrons and guests experience the richness of the past, while connecting it to the present.
https://www.lartenascosta.com/aion-tours
Ponte Vecchio; the ceiling at Palazzo Vecchio
- Perfumery experience at Profumoir
On our second day of the press trip, we made our way to Profumoir, an olfactory library and experimental atelier in the heart of the city. Entering the shop felt like stepping back in time: there were rooms filled with vials that line every wall, a secret garden where forty species grow to then be used for the scents and notes, a space for private incense ceremonies. Profumoir’s approach to perfumery is highly personalised for each guest. They create tailor-made perfumes, host workshops and even let guests stay in rooms available to rent.
After a lesson on the art of layering, the origin of perfume – from the Latin perfumum, as the first perfumes were smoking incense to access the gods – and the process of extraction, we proceeded to create our own perfume. In front of each of us was a selection of twenty olfactory notes. We had to smell, focus on the feelings evoked, then select our three favourite scents. The result – a fascinating blend that mixed special memories with surprising scents – was incredibly different for every guest. Mine had notes of lemon, iris leaves and Jasmin nightshade. This is an experience I highly recommend for anyone wishing to try something unique – and incredibly romantic – in Florence.
https://profumoir.com/?srsltid=AfmBOorVi5YpfG5rdFm9ACSbPJx27vv_ddFEvMvTFz-X7ojVA1_ei2vc
Making perfumes at Profumoir