Elie Saab wasn’t present in Paris during this season, but he still delivered a beautiful bouquet of a couture collection as an offering of hope and as a sign of his commitment to the métier.

As an eternal optimist, Elie Saab sees the world’s coming out of lockdown as a transition from darkness into the light. That premise served as the core of the collection and the overall thematic of the show. This plays out as the show opens with black looks and gradually brightens and finishes with pale pastels.

His theme, of course, is flowers; as a symbol of blooming and being reborn after a dark time.

Elie Saab included classic Disney princess versions of the silhouette. The opening look is a clear example of it, the “petals” of the dress are formed by feathers and bring the overall form to life. He took a modern and unexpected deconstruction of the classic look.

Elie Saab

Through the collection, he played with the appliance of embellishments to the lightest materials. He achieved a whimsical look in which the materials seem to hover on the fabric – as a butterfly might land on a leaf.

Elie Saab

Using transparency in some of the looks, he revealed the inner workings of the dresses in the form of tulle panniers.

Elie Saab

There was plenty of volume too. It can be admired in a wide-skirted dress in a nude colour with patches of blue and green floral patterns.

Elie Saab played with traditional silhouettes and cutouts through the dresses, revealing intricate lines that are catching the eye.

The clothes were shown on a white backdrop with columns as props. It is planned to resume runway shows in January, if possible. Elie Saab has stated that the label prefers to start up again when it’s clear that normal life has resumed, rather than risk starting up only to stop again.

You can watch the full show here: