Every February, Black History Month honours the rich heritage, achievements, and contributions of Black individuals—many of whom remain hidden figures in history despite their undeniable impact.
This year, we turn our focus to the history of cocktails and the pioneering influence of Tom Bullock, the first African American to publish a cocktail book, The Ideal Bartender (1917). To bring his legacy into the present, I sat down with Christina Veira, an industry leader in wine and spirits, to explore her modern interpretations of Bullock’s original recipes and the importance of representation in the beverage world. Each cocktail highlights a key ingredient essential to the recipe and the story behind it—all available at the LCBO.
A Legacy in the Glass: The Impact of Tom Bullock
Tom Bullock, a pre-Prohibition bartender, was renowned for his cocktail expertise. His book, The Ideal Bartender, remains a key historical record of cocktail culture and Black contributions to American bartending. Christina Veira, co-owner of Bar Mordecai and founder of STAVE, revitalizes Bullock’s legacy while advocating for diversity and inclusion. Recognized by Foodism for her DEI efforts, she was named Canada’s 100 Best Bartender of the Year in 2023.
Christina, what inspired you to showcase these particular cocktails for Black History Month? Can you share a bit about the book and author these drinks are drawn from?
“I’m often asked to contribute to BHM programming and, to be honest, I usually decline. Aside from wanting to ensure that my presence doesn’t descend into tokenism, I also often am wary of the premise of the ask. In the history of the Americas, Black people have been an integral and founding part of hospitality. Unfortunately, though, our presence is erased in a way that has no relation to our actual impact. One of the best examples of that is Tom Bullock, who was a very influential bartender pre-Prohibition who was also Black. He wrote The Ideal Bartender, which was a valued resource for all people, be they hosts or working professionals. The book has a range of recipes, but I really wanted to focus on punches.”
Reimagining Classic Cocktails
Veira’s reimagining of Bullock’s cocktails blends historical reverence with modern sensibilities. She notes that many older cocktail books provide sparse directions, assuming an inherent understanding of techniques.
“I’ve adjusted the recipes a bit for both a modern-day palate as well as ease of making,” Veira explains. “Many older cocktail books assume you know how to execute certain steps, like making an oleo saccharum, without much explanation. Updating the recipes allows for clarity while maintaining the integrity of these classic drinks.”
Her focus on punch-style cocktails highlights the communal nature of drinking, emphasizing the role of hospitality and shared experiences in Black cultural traditions. “The art of crafting a drink is linked to the love of hosting,” Veira says. “We often ignore who crafts the drinks and the intimacy it creates between the bartender and the guest. The erasure of Black people from American bartending history is incredibly damaging because American bartending as we know it could not have existed in without their presence.”
The Modernized Cocktails
Veira has updated several of Bullock’s recipes, making them accessible for contemporary audiences while honouring their origins. Here are two cocktails to try this Black History Month and beyond:
Bombay Punch
A refreshing and fruit-forward punch, this drink celebrates the historical use of brandy and fortified wines.
Two of the main spirits in this cocktail are Vecchia Romagna Etichetta Nera Brandy and Bristol Cream Sherry. This punch is an apéritif-style drink meant to kick off an evening, with the sherry and brandy bringing richness and boldness to this beautifully fruited affair. Find these essential ingredients at the LCBO.
Ingredients:
- 125 ml oleo saccharum**
- 1 cup (250 ml) sliced strawberries
- 1 cup (250 ml) lemon wheels
- 1 cup (250 ml) orange wheels
- 1 cup (250 ml) fresh pineapple pieces
- 375 ml Vecchia Romagna Etichetta Nera Brandy
- 375 ml Bristol Cream Sherry
- 375 ml Madeira
- 2.5 bottles Champagne
- 750 ml Perrier
Instructions:
- Combine oleo saccharum, fruit, brandy, sherry, and Madeira in a punch bowl. Refrigerate for extra flavour.
- Add a block of ice.
- Top with Champagne and Perrier.
- Serve in punch glasses, ensuring each glass has some fruit.
(Oleo saccharum is made by macerating citrus peels in sugar, extracting the flavorful oils. For every cup of peels, macerate with ¼ cup of sugar for at least 24 hours.)
Punch à la Romaine
A frozen, textural cocktail incorporating Italian and Caribbean influences. But it is the rum that is the star of the show. This spirit was highly influential during Bullock’s time, and the Flor de Caña 12-Year-Old Rum—whose name translates to “flower of the cane”—certainly reflects its name, with fragrant floral and vanilla notes being dominant. It pairs beautifully with bubbly in this citrus-forward cocktail. Find this standout rum at the LCBO.
Ingredients:
- 1 bottle Sparkling wine
- 1 bottle Flor de Caña 12-Year-Old Rum
- 60 ml Scrappy’s Aromatic Bitters
- 2L blood orange-lemon granita
- 2L Italian meringue
Instructions:
- Prepare blood orange-lemon granita and Italian meringue ahead of time.
- In a punch bowl, combine rum, bitters, and Franciacorta.
- Layer with granita and meringue for texture.
- Serve in chilled glasses.
Cocktails Are Cultural
As we celebrate Black History Month, these cocktails serve as more than just drinks—they are a way to honour and acknowledge the integral role Black individuals have played in hospitality and mixology. “I hope people understand that Black people are not new to shifting and elevating our hospitality experiences,” Veira says. By looking to the past, we can better inform the present and ensure that these contributions are properly recognized and celebrated.
So, raise a glass to history, tradition, and the future of inclusive and inspired hospitality.
Feature Image Credit: Cocktail Kingdom.