The luxury house has defined classic, feminine, Parisian style for decades, and creative director Gabriela Hearst has woven threads of sustainability through her work for the brand. 

Hearst’s work invites and encourages discussions about sustainability, luxury, and how they intersect. Over the years, she’s been consistent about sourcing fabric that is ethical, long-lasting, or recycled. For this collection, Hearst notes, she set aside the climate crisis, and visualized a world of ‘climate success’. With the key idea of ‘rewilding’, or letting nature’s natural rhythms take control, Hearst’s work shifted from ‘bohemian chic’ to pieces made of leather. Real, made-from-animal-hides leather. “[…] Leather is a by-product of the meat industry,” Hearst noted. “So, as long as […] you have traceability, and it’s done in a proper way, you’re using waste.”

The collection showcased sleek, minimalist looks, featuring black, brown, and tan leather pieces. Coats, shirts, fit-and-flare dresses, straight legged pants, puff-sleeve dresses and tops, and midi skirts were all created with glossy leather. 

A model wears a black top, leather knee-length skirt, cowboy boots, and a leather coat

Filippo Fior for Vogue

The collection also featured knitwear, a style that the brand has recently incorporated into their ‘bohemian-chic’ identity. Knit poncho-like dresses draped over models in classic reds and blues. Knit sweaters were accessorized with statement leather pieces and paired with leather midi skirts. The combination of colourful knit against sleek leather pieces created an interesting juxtaposition, and redefined the house’s classic, feminine style. The collection also featured a series of classic menswear-inspired boxy coats, white tank tops, layered, textured monochromatic looks, cowboy boots, and plush teddy-bear coats and dresses. 

A model wears a knit top with a leather skirt and accessories

Filippo Fior for Vogue

Hearst also collaborated with the African-American Gee’s Bend women quilters of Alabama to create a blanket and coat made of deadstock scraps.  

A model wears a coat made of deadstock fabric.

Filippo Fior for Vogue

The idea of regeneration and rewilding was prominent throughout the collection; Hearst especially worked with recycled cashmere sweaters and skirts. On one side [of these pieces], there were knitted images of melting glaciers and burning landscapes; on the reverse, images of green mountain ranges and forests.

A model wears a gray intarsia look

Filippo Fior for Vogue

A model wears an intarsia knit top

Alessandro Viero for Vogue

The entire collection– knitwear, leather, and faux fur, all showcased Hearst’s imagination and idea of rewilding, and letting nature return to its rhythms.


Published by HOLR Magazine.