In many of these fashion shows, the concept of “logic” is completely absent, and Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear collection at the Paris Fashion Week was a reflection of illogicality.
Anderson described his fall show with the word “primal,” and “pushing things toward something that could be irrational.” The pre-World War II movement turned mass psychological tension into art in the late 1930s, known as “surrealism.” The Surrealists wanted to fight against this “rationalism” that they believed guided European culture into war, turning reality into fantasy. Surrealists were also influenced by the work of Sigmund Freud, using words and visuals to expand all possibilities between dreams and reality. Freud’s influence was also obvious with the nudity on display in many of the apparel.
The designer mentioned his insight had also been on feminist art, which could be seen with references to surrealist Méret Oppenheim – perhaps the furry shearlings, and Lynda Benglis, who uses poured latex – maybe the rubber tanks.
Image Credit: vogue.com
Remember the mention of Sigmund Freud and his impact on this collection? The anatomy that Freud was so heavily known for can be seen instantly with the huge dark red latex lips that are being used as a bandeau. Although a bandeau is a piece on its own, it is connected to the actual dress in this ornament. The balance is created in the simplicity of the plain skirt and flounce, falling gracefully covering the legs. The exposing of the arms, shoulders, and a little bit of the chest brings another dimension to this look.
Image Credit: vogue.com
This dress has a lot going on… a lot of balloons. The different shades of blue on this long-sleeveless dress stand out, primarily the navy blue balloons that are so well complimented by the white ones on the dress. The overall texture of the dress is pretty rough with a lack of smoothness, the latter coming from what’s on the chest. Blue balloons are blown up as a means for the bra, and the bobbling knots as salacious satire for nipples. “A balloon creates tension,” Anderson observed. “It will pop, it won’t last forever.”
Image Credit: vogue.com
At first glance, the arms and hands of this dress look awfully comfortable. Anderson decided to wrap this long draped dress – resembling curtains railed up perfectly on windows, in a Schiaparelli-like embrace of a pair of female-slash-feline begloved arms. The bright orange side of the dress falls longer from behind in comparison to the grassy green of the left side of the dress which stops just above the knees. Regardless of the two colours falling under different spectrums – the yellow-orange being a tertiary colour, and the green is a secondary shade. Despite being on the opposite sides of the colour temperature, the attraction is glaring.
Published by: HOLR Magazine.