Chunky shoes, chess patterns, all white. Three phrases that really simplify what Maison Margiela’s contemporary line MM6 Spring 2022 ready-to-wear collection is all about. 

From collaborations on and off the runway to patterns that confuse your eyes, Margiela really showed up to dominate Milan fashion week. 

The collection debuted in Milan was spot on Margiela, silhouette and textiles that the brand is known for. Margiela is known for almost grunge looks, always debuting leather and biker streetwear, with a mix of upscale ready-to-wear that is always eye-catching. 

In this runway, many eyes were caught on the main textile and fabric choice that dominated the collection. Much like the hype from the Netflix show the Queen’s Gambit, Margiela took the theme of chess to the next level. Not to say that it was a direct inspiration behind the collection, but the idea and similarities are very much on point. 

The walk showed many silhouettes that were wrapped up in a check-like pattern, with its base colour white the checks alternated between an enhanced green and red check. The almost leather-like look for the garments really took its own shape when it came to the silhouettes it debuted.

For the material of choice, each garment had an illusion aspect to it, allowing the garment to not fully take shape of the wearer, but allowed for the pattern to be the highlight of the outfit. 

Whether it is a 5-pocket trouser or an overcoat, the shape of each garment allowed for the pattern to be the main focus. The same can be said with the other textiles Margiela used, one very interesting textile is almost manila paper looking. This textile is once again one that did not allow for the shape or silhouette to overtake the garment, but for texture to shine. A few other stars of the Margiela ready-to-wear show were the shoes and bags. 

In 2018 Margiela joined many other brands in pledging to go fur-free, now in many collections since, including the Spring 2022 collection faux fur became a very interesting accessory. Shoes that resemble what could be named the Chubaka shoes are covered in fur, and bags like luggage and handbags are covered in the same faux material. Margiela’s use of fabrics and textiles is the main attribute to this ready-to-wear collection and truly brings forth the focus on textile rather than silhouettes. 

Article published by HOLR Magazine